When is Enough Enough?

The article below was written last August, when we went for lunch on the brand new French bistrot Formidable (read it as formi-daa-bl and not for-mi-dable). Last Sunday, after duly voting for mayor in Rio de Janeiro, we tried it again. After all, the food was excellent despite the desorderly explanations and service of the previous experience.

We ordered gnocchi and a green salad with chevre cheese. Two white wine glasses came duly chilled and delicious, just the right temperature to celebrate 30 years anniversary. Much to our surprise, right in the middle of the excelent starter an uninvited guest appeared leisurely strolling on the lettuce. The maitre apologized and offered to give us another dish. We said there was no problem,: we have a vegetable garden at home and are familiar with the insects. We told them, however, to be more careful.

The maitre said that the chef would come to talk to us. The gnocchi arrived hot, tender, with a white tasty cream sauce covered with crispy almonds. Up until we finished, no sign of the chef. We skipped the desert and ordered the bill. There was no discount, no peace offering. The waiter was giving us our receipt when the man finally showed up. He presented his excuses, so fake, so heartless, his face showing only contempt! 

Gone are the days of chivalry, of being proud of one's job, the effort to serve well. What is the pleasure of eating if, despite the good food, the service makes you want to puke? Once again it will take us a while to go there again, if ever.  

When you go out to eat food and end up eating concept - published on THE UMBRELLA magazine edited for the English speaking community of Rio de Janeiro. If you are interested to know more about it, click here.

A concept is an idea, a theme. Either you buy it or not. For example, marketeers have bottled Copacabana’s seawater, Ipanema’s sand and even our beloved city’s aroma for selling our tourism industry to foreigners.

Now, eating a concept: a chef (or his investors) snatched a fancy address in Zona Sul of Rio de Janeiro and decided to make a tribute to French cuisine. The place supposedly is a bistrot just like those formidable ones you will find on a Parisian streetcorner; or so they say.

As you enter, the waiter explains that both you and your partner must choose either the menu degustation for both, or separate a la carte dishes, “because our kitchen is too small”. The thing is a little bit confusing; however, a glass of white wine later it is time to enjoy the formidable surroundings.

There are shelves on the walls with smashed-in cardboard boxes. They are doubtless meant to be part of the decoration, but they look like there was no other place to put them. Perhaps the interior decorator was fired before finishing his job? Or, perhaps the owner just did not care about the ambience. Oh, yes, let us not forget: the concept!

The bench seats are comfortable, as are the wooden chairs. The tableware is not remarkable and the butter served with the couvert comes in a piece of cracked ceramic. The paté of pork offered is refused, thank you very much.

A young couple arrives with a toddler. There is no high chair for the little girl. Mother and father do not mind and stay. The girl cries and kicks about. The father eats the couvert placidly. Finally, the child sleeps, exhausted, in her mum’s arms.

The waiters seem a little bit lost, even in such a small space, but seem kind if not attentive. “It is not my job” was the formidable reply when we asked for salt and coconut water. None of the waiters paid any attention to us as we left the establishment.

But, surprise, surprise! Despite the general confusion, the food is really, really, good! Both dishes we tried were exceptional: the catch of the day (dourado) with a vegetable couscous of vegetables in bouillabaisse broth; and especially the chicken breast with champignons and tarragon, served with pasta au gratin! Even the profiteroles with pale almond chocolate sauce were very tasty!

The address is Rua João Lira 148, Leblon. Opening hours daily from noon to 4 pm and 7 pm to 12 pm. Reservations: 2239 7632.

So, if you are willing to forget the concept and spend R$ 78 for a main dish or R$ 125 for the menu degustation, perhaps, in the end, you will say…Formidable! 

A. N.: The menu degustation is now R$ 140,00