Respite

How about trying something different? Get out of the routine and unwind enjoying the sight, the sun, the breeze, the lazy movement and the smell of the sea. There is a place not fully explored in its potential and it is the Marina da Glória. Recently revitalized for the Olympic Games of 2016 it is worth the visit. If you are a skipper, dock there. If you do not own a boat but want one, go there to choose yours. Even if you are adept of the precept: “A boat provides a bloke two great happy occasions: the first when you buy it, the second when you sell it”, a stroll around is still very rewarding. Beautiful pictures are granted.

Either by daylight, sunset or at night, while you are at it, a good idea is to sit at a table at Empório Rio, a restaurant with a breathtaking view of the burrow of Flamengo’s skyline, the monument in memory of Brazilian G.I.s., the Marina and some amazing yachts docked there. Choose one of your favourite drinks and enjoy the fact that you are only a few minutes from the hustle and bustle of downtown and the frenetic traffic of Santos Dumont airport, from which, by the way, the restaurant provides a transfer if asked in advance.

During the week they have, besides the a la carte menu, the executive option at R$ 50.00 (fifty reais), consisting of salad, main course and desert. A basket with bread, different pastes, fish (catch of the day), salad, different potatoes puree with dried tomatoes, plus a 330 ml Heineken turned out less than R$ 80.00 (eighty reais). Saturday, the famous carioca feijoada is an option at the buffet. The food comes with the endorsement of the executives that work or worked in the offices of Rio Sul Tower in Botafogo, in which shopping centre Empório was located for many years, before moving to the Marina.

They carry options for children and cater to boats. The restaurant will grant you a discount for the covered parking. The access to the Marina is from the Aterro do Flamengo, after Botafogo, towards downtown, pay attention to the signs on your right. The address is Avenida Infante Dom Henrique s/n Loja 102. If you arrive on a boat, docking is free during four hours. Do not forget to make reservations: by phone 21 2556 1201 or e-mail reservas@emporiorio.com.br Opening hours 11:00 am until 24:00 pm weekdays. Saturdays, Sundays and holidays from 12:00 to 24:00. All aboard!

(Published on the Umbrella magazine, April/May 2017)

#cute #beautiful #highkey #lb #fb

Here comes the sun

This text was published on THE UMBRELLA magazine edited for the English speaking community of Rio de Janeiro. If you are interested to know more about it, click here.

“If you cannot think of anything appropriate to say, you will please restrict your remarks to the weather,” says Mrs. Dashwood to her younger daughter Margaret on the 1995 film version of Jane Austen’s classic novel ‘Sense and Sensibility’. It seems as if the only thing we have been doing lately, is complaining rather than commenting. The high temperatures, the sudden rainstorms, the flooding, plus the violent lightning flashes occupy our conversation and other activities.

Early in the morning, our dressing routine includes choosing light clothing, the essential sun block and our friendly umbrella. Furthermore, we have to decide if besides wearing sandals we should take galoshes in a backpack. Maybe a hat, a jacket to brave the air conditioning, or perhaps a raincoat could be sensible…

In case you pass by the beach on the way to work, do you envy those semi-nude individuals spending their leisure time under the sweltering sun? Do you get tanned? Or are you afraid of the ultraviolet rays and feel you have to supplement your diet with vitamin D because you avoid its natural source. In fact, lack of this vitamin is very common nowadays when sun protection reigns supreme.

Complaining is not going to solve our problem, but there is always this nagging question every time we hear the weather report: why, oh why, is the temperature in Rio de Janeiro frequently higher than the other big cities in Brazil during summer?

Our research pointed to our first possible answer: Rio’s geographical location. It’s far from the Equator line and close to the Tropic of Capricorn so it’s subject to the earth’s axis rotation; therefore the four seasons are felt more acutely.

Second, winds in Rio do not circulate easily due to its mountains, creating the usual stifling sensation. Third, urban development is responsible for increasing the cities’ temperatures. In Rio, those big seafront buildings function as a barrier to the wind coming from the sea while also contributing to the high sunlight radiation.

Recently we have all learned that, although the “real” temperature may be only, let us say, 32° Celsius, it feels like 38° C trv or, even more scary for people in the USA, 100° F!. This is called “sensação térmica” in Portuguese, but is rendedred “feels like” or “apparent” temperature in English.

Who cares what it’s called? It is H-O-T! The 2017 weather forecast for the summer on our neck of the woods is strong winds, high temperatures and even some hailstorms. So, fasten your seatbelts, and welcome summertime!

When is Enough Enough?

The article below was written last August, when we went for lunch on the brand new French bistrot Formidable (read it as formi-daa-bl and not for-mi-dable). Last Sunday, after duly voting for mayor in Rio de Janeiro, we tried it again. After all, the food was excellent despite the desorderly explanations and service of the previous experience.

We ordered gnocchi and a green salad with chevre cheese. Two white wine glasses came duly chilled and delicious, just the right temperature to celebrate 30 years anniversary. Much to our surprise, right in the middle of the excelent starter an uninvited guest appeared leisurely strolling on the lettuce. The maitre apologized and offered to give us another dish. We said there was no problem,: we have a vegetable garden at home and are familiar with the insects. We told them, however, to be more careful.

The maitre said that the chef would come to talk to us. The gnocchi arrived hot, tender, with a white tasty cream sauce covered with crispy almonds. Up until we finished, no sign of the chef. We skipped the desert and ordered the bill. There was no discount, no peace offering. The waiter was giving us our receipt when the man finally showed up. He presented his excuses, so fake, so heartless, his face showing only contempt! 

Gone are the days of chivalry, of being proud of one's job, the effort to serve well. What is the pleasure of eating if, despite the good food, the service makes you want to puke? Once again it will take us a while to go there again, if ever.  

When you go out to eat food and end up eating concept - published on THE UMBRELLA magazine edited for the English speaking community of Rio de Janeiro. If you are interested to know more about it, click here.

A concept is an idea, a theme. Either you buy it or not. For example, marketeers have bottled Copacabana’s seawater, Ipanema’s sand and even our beloved city’s aroma for selling our tourism industry to foreigners.

Now, eating a concept: a chef (or his investors) snatched a fancy address in Zona Sul of Rio de Janeiro and decided to make a tribute to French cuisine. The place supposedly is a bistrot just like those formidable ones you will find on a Parisian streetcorner; or so they say.

As you enter, the waiter explains that both you and your partner must choose either the menu degustation for both, or separate a la carte dishes, “because our kitchen is too small”. The thing is a little bit confusing; however, a glass of white wine later it is time to enjoy the formidable surroundings.

There are shelves on the walls with smashed-in cardboard boxes. They are doubtless meant to be part of the decoration, but they look like there was no other place to put them. Perhaps the interior decorator was fired before finishing his job? Or, perhaps the owner just did not care about the ambience. Oh, yes, let us not forget: the concept!

The bench seats are comfortable, as are the wooden chairs. The tableware is not remarkable and the butter served with the couvert comes in a piece of cracked ceramic. The paté of pork offered is refused, thank you very much.

A young couple arrives with a toddler. There is no high chair for the little girl. Mother and father do not mind and stay. The girl cries and kicks about. The father eats the couvert placidly. Finally, the child sleeps, exhausted, in her mum’s arms.

The waiters seem a little bit lost, even in such a small space, but seem kind if not attentive. “It is not my job” was the formidable reply when we asked for salt and coconut water. None of the waiters paid any attention to us as we left the establishment.

But, surprise, surprise! Despite the general confusion, the food is really, really, good! Both dishes we tried were exceptional: the catch of the day (dourado) with a vegetable couscous of vegetables in bouillabaisse broth; and especially the chicken breast with champignons and tarragon, served with pasta au gratin! Even the profiteroles with pale almond chocolate sauce were very tasty!

The address is Rua João Lira 148, Leblon. Opening hours daily from noon to 4 pm and 7 pm to 12 pm. Reservations: 2239 7632.

So, if you are willing to forget the concept and spend R$ 78 for a main dish or R$ 125 for the menu degustation, perhaps, in the end, you will say…Formidable! 

A. N.: The menu degustation is now R$ 140,00

Letter to the Editors - Umbrella

Once again, thank you Mr Hieatt!

A revista Umbrella é mensal e pode ser lida no link Read The Umbrella anywhere in the world!

Se você tiver curiosidade sobre o texto mencionado, clique aqui para ler na íntegra.

Hey, Mr Postman!

This text was published on THE UMBRELLA magazine edited for the English speaking community of Rio de Janeiro. If you are interested to know more about it, click here.

Hey, Mr Postman!

The print version Umbrella magazine arrives with stamps on its envelope – how cute is that? Usually there are five coloured pieces of paper, roughly 1 inch square, depicting something informative or commemorative; these so attract the eye they make it impossible to simply throw the plastic casing away.

A trumpet designed in 2002, three shoe menders/makers of 2005, plus something indiscernible, permit the magazine to arrive in our homes.

It is possible to get to know a country’s or city’s history by paying attention to the stamps governments issue along the years. The biggest event now being celebrated in Rio de Janeiro is its 450^th anniversary. The Brazilian Postal Service (“Correios”) printed four different drawings with the smiling face numbers that represent the logo for the date, each by a different artist. They added hats, wigs and scarves with allusions to Carnival, to Copacabana sidewalk stones, to the city’s sand, sea and forests.

Corcovado, Sugar Loaf and the black and white waves of stone ornamenting our pedestrian pavement, all frequent Rio’s stamps constantly. However, beautiful old buildings have also been depicted: these include the Monroe Palace (sadly, no longer among us); the Lapa Aqueduct; football team Botafogo’s headquarters; and the Presbyterian Cathedral (built between 1920 and 1934). 

Curiously, the commemorative stamp issued in 2012 upon the 150^th anniversary of the Presbyterian Church in Brazil [the church began in 1862, the Cathedral in 1920.] sported a hologram of the Cathedral’s stained glass window, of great interest to philatelists.

Brazilian samba schools and football teams are subjects of stamp designers, as are noted singers: Carmen Miranda is a perennial favourite. Raul Seixas and Cazuza were remembered in 1991 upon the second Rock‘nRio event. (Unfortunately, our research could not find any explanation for the fact that Cazuza’s stamp was worth 25 cruzeiros but Raul’s 185 cruzeiros!)

The Correios has a special commission in charge of defining the themes of the stamps to be printed, and they are open to suggestions. They can be about art, architecture, pop culture, commemorative dates, sports, fauna, flora, personalities, environment, tourism, in sum, practically anything. If you are an artist (or even if you are not) and have an inspiration about Rio you would like to share, go to http://www2.correios.com.br/selos/selos_postais/vota_selo/ and follow the instructions for submission. Suggestions received by June, 1^st 2016 will (if approved) be printed in 2017!

PS An Historical Footnote.

Postage stamps were invented by a resourceful gentleman in England who decided to find out why so many letters went back to the post offices unopened. The answer was that the recipient had to pay for correspondence; many did not have the means to pay and simply refused to accept mail. Sir Rowland Hill proposed using prepaid stamps to the British government in 1939, and in 1940, the first stamps were issued. Does it surprise you to know that, in 1843, Brazil was the first country to follow England’s example?

Location, location, location

Texto de Nancy de Lustoza Barros e Hirsch na revista Umbrella da comunidade de expatriados de língua inglesa no Rio de Janeiro. Para a revista na íntegra, clique aqui. 

A must! Whatever you do, the setting has to be perfect for your intentions. That is why a rigged vintage Mercedes Benz awaited right in the middle of the luxuriant Parque Lage. A film crew bustled about, providing last minute adjustments for the continuation of the filming of Ronald Biggs’ script “Prisoner of Rio”.

It was the end of the 1980s, on a calm Saturday morning of early Fall. Only a select group were privy to the explosion about to happen and all present awaited for the big star to arrive. As usual, he was late (no it is not Ronnie!): Mr Lech Majewski, the Polish director contracted to orchestrate the filming, would take the set by storm sometime soon (or not), accompanied by his considerable big entourage. After a few hours, he would order champagne be served lavishly.

A small group of foreign investors gathered at the park to watch the activity with their Brazilian partners, and many of the latter had their hearts bleeding: imported cars were rare in Rio de Janeiro by then and the crazy director was about to destroy one beautiful model!

Parque Lage was among the fine choices of scenic views of our city as background for “Prisoner in Rio”. It is located between Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas and the foot of the Corcovado with its 500 hectares of gardens, forest, historic building, trails and art school. Primarily a sugar cane mill, the site was transformed to residence later on. The British landscape architect John Tyndale designed the gardens by mid 1800s and the majestic house was built only in 1920, as a declaration of love: an homage to his wife, the owner imported its marbles, tiles and decorative bricks from Italy, along with the draftsman Mario Vodrel.

The park now is a heritage of the city and belongs to the Government of Rio de Janeiro, since it was given to Banco do Brasil to pay for debts.

It is worth exploring Parque Lage to discover its hidden treasures: an aquarium, a romantic cave, the Tudor entrance of the stables, the Café, plus, those with artistic veins will find a variety of courses offered at the Escola de Artes Visuais. The address is Rua Jardim Botânico 414, telephone 21 3257 1800 and further information may be found at www.eavparquelage.rj.gov.br.

Despite many Brazilians cast in the movie, the account of the 1963 Great Train robbery with almost 3 million sterling pounds by Ronnie Biggs never reached the carioca’s big silver screens.

All About Rio de Janeiro

Texto de Nancy de Lustoza Barros e Hirsch na revista Umbrella em Março para a comunidade de expatriados de língua inglesa no Rio de Janeiro. Para a revista na íntegra, clique aqui. 

Rio is 450 years old in 2015. We will hear about its celebrations and history everywhere and about every aspect of Carioca lives. Born under the sign of royalty, our city’s history is so mixed with Brazil’s that to learn about one is to learn about the other. Blame it on the 196 years of being the capital of the country – entry port from the outside world, culture disseminator, politics and administration berth. History is addictive. The more you learn, the more you want to know. Once the questions “Why? When? How? What?” have, like bees, stung your investigative self, you are doomed. However, the antidote may be at hand. Professor Milton Teixeira is the know-it-all you need to hear about Rio--does he have stories to tell! 

An historian and professor, Teixeira organizes groups for touring interesting places where important facts happened, and he tells us all that was cooking back then, for instance: the arrival of sugar cane and slaves in Rio; the shipping of gold extracted in Brazilian mines; the arrival of the Portuguese royal family; architectural trends and designs; the growth of our streets; and, last but not least, the selection as host for the Olympic Games next year. With Professor Teixeira, gossip and hearsay are debated, fiction and reality are explicated about the birthplace of the happiest people in the world –Cariocas, of course. Places like Cosme Velho, Copacabana and Ipanema are visited. He tells us about the birth of Bossa Nova, what transportation in Rio was like a long time ago, and explains how colonial hygiene and sanitation worked. The Professor is concerned about the city’s preservation and points out beautiful and historical buildings that have been neglected. He shows us the difference between the republican and colonial developments in loco. According to Milton Teixeira, you have to go out to “be able to really know about the surroundings”. 

Teixeira’s pupils can learn why Rio’s mayors and governors were, until recently, always  from the opposition political party: it was a loud and clear protest by Carioca voters against the powers that transferred the capital of Brazil to the centre of the country. Losing our “ruling and reigning” status was hard to swallow. 

Milton Teixeira frequently appears in interviews on FM BandNews and his interchanges with the in-house trio of journalists during the morning news are extremely interesting. The radio station also sponsors some of the Professor’s outings and, as this is being written, there is one scheduled for March 1st: a boat will sail the waters in front of the city centre, Glória, Flamengo, Botafogo, etc to celebrate the 450th birthday of Rio de Janeiro. Sadly, due to production deadlines, Umbrella readers will not be able to go on this voyage. However, Prof. Teixeira has many other roadmaps to explore and information is given by the telephone numbers 21 2527- 9129 and 999-522-789. One tip: his lessons are free; however, be prepared to walk, come rain or shine.

For more of Umbrella, click here.

Want to Know a Secret? - Umbrella

Published on the Umbrella magazine:

The CasaShopping  mall in Barra da Tijuca, close to BarraShopping specializes in home furnishings and is a nice place to buy from bathtubs to bath towels, from mattresses to lamps, just to mention a few of the goodies to be found there. Also if you like, a stroll around is always agreeable, as it’s got lots of open spaces.

What you may not know is that there are now many gastronomical options in the mall. In the new building on the recently expanded site, the novelty is “L’Entrecôte de Paris”. As is customary in Brazil, everything with a French name is supposedly posh… but the concept does not apply in this case. Do not enter the place unaware for all you will find is steak and chips. That is it! The menu consists of one single solitary item, one only choice: steak, chips and a “secret” sauce. Supposedly, like its namesake and inspiration on the Champs Élysées in Paris.

The sauce deserves a special paragraph: the waiter will tell you that the sauce is secret, which may lead your imagination to excelsior, to infinity, to heaven. On the other hand, it may cause you an excruciating doubt: will I like it? Is it something I am allergic to? Fear not! When the secret is unveiled, it turns out to be a mustard sauce. This can be a tad disappointing since mustard usually has a permanent place inside refrigerator shelves in our homes. It certainly is fine to weave the eating experience with a little suspense; however, there are better ways to tell the story. Such as, the recipe has been kept secret for a long time, or that is a family tradition being passed down through generations… In short, explain a little bit more of the puzzle.

The food is served pre-sliced, similar to the “London Broil” offering common to US steakhouse menus, and you add sauce as desired. The size of the steak is … How shall we put it delicately? Let us say that ladies on a diet will approve. Those having a hearty appetite may have to do with – here is the good news – chips, which are really good! You order as many chips as you can devour and the flow of the sauce stops only when you ask.

Included in the price is an honest small – not tiny! – serving of salad. The appetizer consists of bread and the charge is R$ 5,50 per person. Draft  Stella Artois beer is sold at R$ 8,00 and l’entrecote itself costs R$ 48,59. For dessert those with a sweet tooth should ask for the “marquise au chocolat”, delectable at R$ 18,40.

The seating capacity of the restaurant is 96 seats, and you can expect to find the restaurant almost empty at 1 pm on a regular Friday; upon finishing your meal, you will be amazed by the full occupancy of the salon and the queue forming up outside.

The address in Barra da Tijuca is Av. Ayrton Senna, 2150 – CasaShopping, Bloco O, lojas G and H. It is open from Monday to Sunday from 12 am to 10 pm. Credit cards are all welcome. If you are curious and would like to explore the place’s “secrets”, you can find more information at http://lentrecotedeparis.com.br . 

Bon appétit!

foto: tripadvisor

Stand and be Counted - Umbrella

Texto de Nancy de Lustoza Barros e Hirsch na revista Umbrella para a comunidade de expatriados de língua inglesa no Rio de Janeiro. Para a revista na íntegra, clique aqui.

One of the great things about Rio de Janeiro is that one can walk most of its streets. And doing so, observe the ambiance, people strolling by; dogs, cats, birds and even small monkeys going about their affairs; the trees that dress themselves according to the seasons. The buildings, the monuments and this special group of celebrities. These are eternal observers of our lives, standing in their posts, come shine or rain, subject to vandals and pigeons. We pass by them, oblivious of their presence, their origin or purpose. They are the statues of Rio de Janeiro. Musicians, politicians, medical doctors, journalists, princesses, muses. Lions, globes, hands.

Only a very few are well known to the population; surely the best known is the poet, Carlos Drummond de Andrade, who once wrote: “How difficult to speak! No words, no codes: just mountains and mountains and mountains, oceans and oceans and oceans”. Sitting on his stone bench on Copacabana beach and cast in bronze by sculptor Leo Santana, he is always a good company to show at home on a picture – or post on  social media – even if his trademark round spectacles are frequently forcibly removed from his face.

Born in Bahia, song writer and singer, Dorival Caymmi was very successful in his field and his fame surpassed frontiers. His are the verses that say that it is sweet to die at sea. Father to a big family, his first generation offspring sport three musicians; sure there are more to come. Also cast in bronze by sculptor Otto Dumovich he also stands on the “calçadão” in Copacabana beach, all smiles, waving to passersby, carrying his guitar on a case.

There is also a famous statue of a lady, one Ana Nery. She was the first woman nurse in Brazil, volunteering for work during the war with Paraguay in 1865 and her statue cast in bronze by sculptor Luiz Ferrer decorates the front of the Red Cross building at the square with that name near Rio’s downtown.

Cast in bronze by Anísio Mota Fritz, he doesn’t have a name. he is known as O Pequeno Jornaleiro, possibly after local newsboy José Bento de Carvalho, who, aged 10, traveled up and down Rio’s downtown streets crying the headlines. Trousers twice his size, half-hidden under a crumpled hat brim, he carries newspapers under his arm. He now stands at Rua Sete de Setembro near Avenida Rio Branco, well loved by passersby.

A funny figure created by Ique is located in Jardim Botânico: Abelardo Barbosa better known as TV personality “Chacrinha”. He hosted a sort of amateur hour show for years , and it is fitting tha Chacrinha means “bagunça” (bedlam), which is what his show often was. The statue captures the huge flowery top hat he used, the bicycle horn dangling from his neck that he would toot whenever he felt like and… la pièce de résistance: a cod fish – “Do you want ‘bacalhau’?”, he cried to the spectators and actually threw lots of cod fish to them… A great communicator, people loved him!

A soothing sight for suffering drivers trying to reach the Tunel Rebouças from Jardim Botânico is Curumim. The slender figure of an indigenous boy standing on a rock inside Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, just about to throw his harpoon, is simply beautiful. The waters, the sky, the light – all contribute to make it a different spectacle every time one looks at it. Thanks to the sculptor, Pedro Correa de Araújo.

It is said that there are almost 700 statues in Rio de Janeiro, more than any other Brazilian city, probably because it was once the capital of the country. Maybe next time you pass by one of our silent companions, you will take a minute to observe it and get to know it better.

photo: globo.com

A Letter to the Editors - Umbrella

The Umbrella is published by the British and Commonwealth Society of Rio de Janeiro - an engaged group of people. My contribution to the magazine is a monthly article on which our city is the main character: it is a huge responsibility and a great pleasure. The following was received:

Thank you very much, Mr Chris Hieatt!

Feedback - Sooooo Nice!

Here is a transcription of a letter to the editors of the Umbrella magazine with regards to the text about the Botos Cinzas of the Guanabara Bay:

 "Dear Editors, Nan Carioca's "Boto Cinza" Carioca (The Umbrella, July 2014) brought back happy memories of a beautiful recent afternoon. Half-a-dozen or more "golfinhos" (gray dolphins) decided to join us for a portion of the ferry ride from Praça XV to Ilha de Paquetá, slowing down to keep up with our old ferry, the 1,000-passenger 'Itaipu'. They alternated from our port and starboard sides to cruise with us - perhaps guide us - for at least ten minutes and to leap at predictably short intervals (photo oportunity?). My 29-year-son visiting from New York learned that this was a rare occurence when the Carioca next to us volunteered that this was the first time he has seen "botos" alongside the ferries... during more than a decade of riding the ferryboats. 

 Dear Ms. Hirsch: please convey to the Boto Cinza Family that there were many of us - including my son and me - who "were delighted to see and photograph your return to that portion of the Guanabara Bay near the huge bridge between Rio and Niterói. Dozens of squealing school children ("Olha lá... tão pertinho... que lindos"), their families, commuting workers and first-time visitors were glad they were there to see you cavorting around us, bringing all good fortune and happiness". 

And thank you for the link to "Projeto Maqua"! 

 With best wishes, P. J. Kurz" 

 The Umbrella magazine is published for the English speaking expats in Rio de Janeiro. In order to see its content click here

photo: agência de notícias de direitos animais

Save the Gray Dolphins!

This is the text by Nancy de Lustoza Barros e Hirsch published at the Umbrella magazine for the English speaking expats in Rio de Janeiro. In order to see the full magazine click here

My name is Carioca and I live at Guanabara Bay in Rio de Janeiro, where my family has been residing since the beginning of time. It is in the nature of our species to stay in the places we are born in forever, so, I am a proud descendant of the very ones seen by the pioneers arriving in our country. We made such an impression on the first Portuguese setting foot in Rio that later we were used as a symbol on the city’s flag, and there we remain today, proudly representing Rio’s waters. French historian Jean de Léry, writing in the XVI century, said that the sea here was “muddled” with my people and when Sir Walter Briarly visited the region in mid-1800 he portrayed us flocking around.

I am, of course, a gray dolphin.

We are called “botos-cinzas”, “toninhas” or “golfinhos” in Portuguese and our scientific name is Sotallia guianensis. We are mammals and on average we weigh 80 kilos and measure 1.8 metres long. Speedwise, we can reach 30 km per hour and we jump out of the water to communicate between ourselves. Our backs are gray, varying from dark to light, but our bellies can be white or rosy. Besides being elegant, gracious and beautiful, we are very intelligent!

According to my elders we used to enjoy about 28 square kilometers of the bay, but lately food has become far more scarce, so we prefer to stay within a smaller perimeter, where there still are plenty of trees around the waters.

Last February a group of us was scouting near the huge bridge between Rio and Niteroi and, and since we rarely go there, we made the news: our photo was stamped in newspapers, magazines and on-line. I did not understand what the fuss was about, but my companions explained that it is because we are becoming extinct. My family used to number 1000 in the 1970’s, but nowadays is only around 40.

I have been advised that the oceanographic department of Rio de Janeiro State University (UERJ) has a project called “Maqua” that monitors and identifies us by photographs—our dorsal fins are like human fingerprints, each one has its very own characteristics. Much is being done to protect us, but it is not enough. Our life expectancy is about 30 years; however, pollution is steadily curbing our chances to survive.

Construction and dredging around the bay causes the rivers that enter our waters come laden with detritus. In addition, the heavy ship traffic (lined up merchant ships, those huge tourist yachts!) destroys the oxygen in the water. This pollution also damages our hormonal and reproductive systems.

The other peril we face is running ashore or being caught by fishermen’s nets. Our relatives that live on the neighboring Sepetiba Bay are being protected by the project “Abrace o Boto Cinza” (hug the gray dolphin). Local fishermen, instead of hunting us down, will take tourists around to watch the about 2,000 species of my family there.

Despite our swiftly diminishing numbers, we, the most Carioca of all dolphins, are not officially listed as in danger of being extinct! Ways to help and more information about us can be found at: maqua.uerj.br/botosbaia.html and institutobotocinza.org

foto: istoe

Umbrella em tempos de Copa

Texto publicado na revista Umbrella

 

A survey gone awry

 

It was during the last Copa das Confederações of football in Brazil when the idea occurred: what do the carioca ladies know about this centenary game? How do they react to the upcoming World Cup in 2014 and the matches that will be played in their beloved city of Rio de Janeiro? A group of 25 women aged from 20 to 60 years old was selected to reply to a series of questions.

 

The majority think that it is important and positive for Brazil and in special for Rio to host games: the investments that are being made here, the visibility that the city will gain. Only five of them showed some concern about the local infrastructure being too fragile to receive as many people as it is expected; or definitely don’t like the idea. It was mentioned that the painted walls and streets are horrid and the noise of the fans maybe excessive sometimes.

 

The number of the carioca ladies interviewed that either abhor or don’t care for football was only of five. Oddly enough, the majority showed to be Botafogo fans, then came the Flamengo supporters sprinkled with a few of Fluminense followers. Not one of them said that she roots for a team chosen by their own volition: they were definitely influenced by fathers, family and the club next door.

 

Carioca ladies are not prone to collect team’s memorabilia, eventually just a t-shirt or a jersey. Many claimed having been at least once in the Maracanã stadium and they prefer to seat on the terraces instead of the chairs. Yes, they do watch the competitions on television, mainly accompanied by friends and family. Many detest the commentator Galvão Bueno and prefer to use any other channel transmitting the match then to hear him. When given the chance to choose another commentator, Luciano do Valle, some will make faces: both guys are felt to be boring, talk too much and/or too loud.

 

As to the present Brazilian team they are all supporters, watch the games and many will invite friends over and offer drinks and aperitifs for the happening. Maria José says that she will not go to the stadium during the championship: “at home I’m able to shout and complain safely”. Neide watches the matches in her team’s full kit. Maria Claudia confessed to dress for the occasion: shirts, painted nails, painted face… Idols from the past varied from Pele to Zico and Romário. Today’s heroes are Fred and Neymar. Luiz Felipe Scolari, Brazil’s coach at the moment, is liked by many, and just one of the interviewed did not know who he was. Aline’s comment about the players nowadays was: ‘terrible hairdos!’ and Andrea asked: ‘what is with David Luiz’s hair?’ - for those of you that don’t know who is David Luiz, he is Brazil’s defender and had a brilliant performance during the Copa das Confederações, when he fiercely protected the six yard box, sometimes bleeding profusely in the head or with a broken nose. He is very tall and has a very peculiar way of wearing his long, curly, blond hair…

 

Simone was the single lady that affirmed having played football for two years and she showed the best knowledge of terms related to football. Camila had no idea that there is such a position as centre back (in Portuguese: quarto zagueiro). Marina guessed that diver (sap: cai-cai) is Neymar’s nickname. Only one of the gals replied to what meant near post (primeiro pau), and honestly, she wasn’t very convincing: “it is the first post” doesn’t sound as if she does know it, right? Marcia questioned if winger wasn’t written with a mistake: since in Portuguese the position is Ala trv shouldn’t it be Alah?

 

When asked what is a Brazilian flick (lambreta), just three of them ventured a reply: an old motorcycle; a dribble; the preparation for a chip “lençol”; the player fakes a kick, stops and then really shoots… You, dear knowledgeable reader, choose the correct answer!

 

Nutmeg means caneta in Portuguese, but what does it really signify? Two ladies ventured that it is when the ball goes through the opponent’s legs. Some lament the referee’s position and the adjectives that are applied to their mothers. Their team’s goals make them happy. Some are bothered by a draw. Another just hates when there is a fight among the supporters of teams. Time waste, a ferocious foul and a thrashing are to be banned from football according to them.

 

About penalties: one of the gals loves watching them. Another fiercely says that a game should not be settled leaving with the goalkeeper all the responsibility for the other ten players inability to score properly: she claims it is an injustice with the poor man. Another one emphasized that she does not forgive Zico and Socrates that missed penalties in the World Cup of 1996, making Brazil lose the game and the title of champion. Another not-ever to be forgiven: Dunga, the last Cup Brazilian coach that managed to take away all the happiness and joy that football has, not only from the fans but also from the players.

 

Quartas de final or quarter finals is a tricky concept for many. When asked if they ever made something worth to be mentioned regarding football, Flora remembers that she was in charge of the negotiations that sold the players Junior and Zico to teams abroad - it was a milestone. Tiane says she found herself rooting for her team right in the middle of the opponents’ seats and left the stadium with her t-shirt stained from a hot-dog thrown at her...

End of game.

Gravura: canaltech

More Umbrellas

Texto de Nancy de Lustoza Barros e Hirsch na revista para a comunidade de expatriados de língua inglesa no Rio de Janeiro. Para ver a revista na íntegra, clique aqui.

Notable umbrellas that we can list include the 1883 painting by Renoir; Penguin’s deadly artifact always trying to harm Batman; Catherine Deneuve’s romantic one; the singing and dancing Gene Kelly’s and Mary Poppins’ magical contraption with the head of a parrot as the handle . Talking about this bird, we must not forget the famous one belonging to Zé Carioca, the parrot drawn by Walt Disney in 1942.  A lazy rogue but extremely “simpático”, he personifies one aspect of the people that live in Rio de Janeiro. It is not wise to simplify the whole character of a population, but there are indeed some persons that are the perfect embodiments of the prejudiced caricature, no doubt about it. Paulistas are hard workers, Baianos are lazy, Cariocas are rascals. If you write it down, putting these in a bag and randomly match persons to adjectives we may end with: Paulistas are lazy, Baianos are rascals, Cariocas are hard workers. True or false, every statement will apply in one or other occasion.

Have you ever heard the come visit us at home invitation that is “passa lá em casa”? Once a Paulista husband and wife recently arrived in Rio met a very friendly couple at the beach. By the end of the day it looked like they knew each others since childhood. The Cariocas had a house in the mountains and they would be happy to welcome the new acquaintances, how about next weekend? Come Saturday morning, bags all ready, a gift in hands, the Paulistas waited by the curb at the meeting point for their to-be hosts, who never came… It happens. There is a lady that has invited me twice already for her Angra dos Reis get-away, but never informed the address. No bother, though, I have no intention to partake anything, not even a minute, with her.

The Brazilian writer Martha Medeiros, originally from Rio Grande do Sul, a true “gaúcha”, says in her latest book “Um lugar na janela” that in her first trip to Rio de Janeiro she felt the taste of liberty and discomposure of the place. Whoa! Should us, Cariocas, feel offended by the word “descompostura”? Not really, because the author professes her undying love to the city all through the text. It is, however, a little bit unsettling, we would prefer the use of “informality” as a better definition… Fact: you will never catch a Paulista walking on the street with a towel robe heading to or from the swimming pool. The same applies to women with wet, just off the shower, hair. Nowadays, just because the jet-set world validated the Havaianas flip-flops, one may find Paulistas wearing them, otherwise, never in one’s life: unthinkable to put delicate white feet in rubber sandals that were at first sold in grocery stores!

An American friend lived in Rio when it was still the capital of the country, her father was attached to the U.S. embassy, and her mother would drive around with a pink fish tail convertible Cadillac.  Back to her native California, she never misses the opportunity when hearing Portuguese spoken near her. She says: “Hi, I am a Carioca, where are you from?” Carioca, botafoguense and salgueirense, what else could you expect for a happy and contended life?

Umbrellas

Texto de Nancy de Lustoza Barros e Hirsch na revista para a comunidade de expatriados de língua inglesa no Rio de Janeiro. Para ver a revista na íntegra, clique aqui.

Umbrellas

Some experiences turn to lessons very quickly: never plan to stay in Rio de Janeiro during vacations in January. It rains. Better yet, it pours. A few of you will remember the first Rock in Rio music festival: George Benson, Yes and a lost pair of shoes, as it would not budge from the fist thick mud. After the show, the alternative was taking a bus to São Paulo and spend the rest of the leisure days by a swimming pool at a cousin’s. Not an option. Young and restless, no other place compares to Rio, even while there is this crazy guy surfing the flooded waters in Baixo Gávea.

A mystery to be solved when it rains: where do all those vendors carrying umbrellas come from? Do they hide in dark alleys, sneaking up the skies, and begging for dark clouds, day in, day out? And where do they store their arsenal? They are so fast! All of a sudden pedestrians in need bump into them right as the first fat splashy hurtful drop of rain turns into a blob on your smart garment while in the centre of the city interviewing for a job – yeah, it is the beginning of the year, and there is a list of promises to be fulfilled.

Women in general suffer the most from the ravages of rain. They wear thin shifts that vanish under water. The hair turns into whatever; the high heeled sandals become drenched, start to squish, and as luck would have it, eventually, one of the tiny leather straps goes bust.

Picture yourself in the middle of Largo da Carioca, the furious summer wind channeling from the sea, the Portuguese stones transforming into soap — let us not even get started on the ghastly job of the guys that place the black and white pieces on the sidewalk —, the safety under the marquises being disputed inch by precious inch…

You have to think quick: the tube, a bus or a taxi back home? Alright, forget the latter, taxis are a fig of imagination at times like that… The guy sporting three hundred and ninety eight umbrellas on his arms approaches. Is he reliable? How much this artifact is going to cost? After having negotiated not the price but the cavities of your purse, the protection in white with little black cats opened and fervently grabbed, you part in the direction of Avenida Rio Branco. As you bend the corner, so does the umbrella over itself.

Foto: deviantart.

Littering

Texto de Nancy de Lustoza Barros e Hirsch na revista para a comunidade de expatriados de língua inglesa no Rio de Janeiro. Para ver a revista na íntegra, clique aqui.

Beautiful face, but dirty behind the ears

There is an illegal balloon high up in the sky. From my viewpoint, not bigger than a fingertip, but it is probably huge, since it carries something like a dangling surfboard. Difficult to discern, as the rising sun gets in the eyes. Almost tripped: a wooden chair, without its legs, lies near one empty beer bottle dangerously balanced on the edge of the sidewalk. Saturday morning, mild temperature on the beach, the owners of the sands are bustling around, carrying cartons of drinks, coconuts, chairs, shouting to one another.

The COMLURB guys have just finished working and there is the impression that things around are clean. Barely: litter peeks from everywhere. A trolley has one flat rubber wheel, making flop-flop sounds and the driver doesn’t care: he has ice bags to deliver. One wonders where the wheel will go when it is finally changed.

Right in front, a lady with neon coloured running shoes, thick white socks up to her knees, makes a pause to inhale and then continues to talk on her cell phone. (The forbidden smell of cigarette brings memories of a deceitful feeling of freedom – those forced to leave the vice know it.) Will the fake jogging lady throw the burnt butt in the correct bin?

Years ago, children were taught to pay attention to dog’s “shards of glass” while strolling on the sidewalk of Copacabana beach. Canine owners in Rio are more educated nowadays and the path is mostly free of such nasty encounter. But, wouldn’t you know it, the proverbial banana skin is right there on the ground – litter in its best.

As of next July, says Dudu The Mayor, fines will be applied on the spot for those unconcerned about the health and welfare of the Cidade Maravilhosa’s environment and population. It is forbidden to build balloons as is littering. Trolleys’ wheels, cigarette butts, bubblegum wraps have all to find the correct destination. Caught in the illegal action by an authority representative – police or COMLURB sweeper – the violator will be fined right there and then through his/hers CPF (Cadastro de Pessoa Física).

These authorities will carry a palmtop to apply the punishment. Refusing to present the CPF, the lawbreaker will be taken to a police station, as are those who pee in the streets. One can appeal the fine, but if it is found to be rightfully applicable, the City Hall will prosecute the title; and gone will be credit with retailers or bank loans.

Fact: Rio de Janeiro is one of the 10 most dirty touristic locations in the world. In 2012, our streets produced the equivalent of three Maracanãs full of litter. Disbursement: 300 million dollars taking care of the mess, claims the City Hall. Time to sanction those who don’t mind dirt, overflows, or diseases like dengue and other unhealthy results of littering.

So, if you slip on a banana skin on the sidewalk while enjoying an ice cream, make sure to have napkins, water, and a decomposable plastic bag at hand, because either you clean up your mess, or Dudu will clean up your pockets.

Foto: Globo.com

UFAs - Publicado no Umbrella

Texto de Nancy de Lustoza Barros e Hirsch na revista para a comunidade de expatriados de língua inglesa no Rio de Janeiro. Para ver a revista na íntegra, clique aqui.

Hands down, it works!

The research about the open air urinal for men in the centre of the city started focusing on the observation that after its use, the person has nowhere to wash hands. Bye, bye, hygiene! Meanwhile, the installation is a real success: beggars and suits alike will wait on an orderly queue in front of it. But it is still a controversial loo. Does it smell? Some say yes, others say no. And what about spillage? Well…

Free of charge, boasting to be devoid of odours due to a special valve directly connected to the city’s wastepipes, installed near the busy central station (Estação Central do Brasil), the invention has no door, no roof and the legs of the user are not covered either. The Mayor of Rio de Janeiro, Eduardo Paes, inaugurated it on February 26th, and he is very enthusiastic about it. The main idea is to prevent people from relieving themselves on the streets, especially during Carnival: this year, since the parades started, 800 were arrested by the police. Mind you, the offenders, bless the beer, included 5% of women!

Built out of steel, it favours security against privacy. It is easy to clean and supposedly resistant to vandalism. One of Dudu’s secretary added that the urban cleanliness company, Comlurb, will be responsible for the loo’s upkeep twice a day. Praiseworthy initiative, however, as pointed the journalist Ancelmo Gois, the user has nowhere to wash/clean his hands. Polemic, controversy! And what would Dr. Oswaldo Cruz say about that? A great hygienist who instituted mandatory vaccination against smallpox and yellow fever in Rio de Janeiro around the 1910s, he would observe that, by urging the men’s population to use this sanitary urinal as is, the bacteria incidence will increase. One problem solved, another one appears.

Many will defend the project, arguing that it was based on the success of the similar ones in Amsterdam… Let us see: a place in Europe, where temperatures vary from -1° C to 22° C during the year, meaning that chances of bacteria proliferating are less if a guy doesn’t clean his hands there, compared to Rio de Janeiro’s 24° C media - basic Maths will tell us that chances of diseases in Rio are a little bit bigger… Another aspect: if, without the urinal at hand, people thought twice - one can only hope - before peeing on the streets, now that it is there the number of leakers will increase, right? Well, maybe soon we will have stimulated ambulant vendors offering disposable sanitary paper towels or envelopes with sanitizer gel for a modicum price. It has to be less than one real and fifty cents which is the entrance fee to the buildings with restrooms around the central station. Someone soon will make a cash profit of the whole situation. Luckily our imaginative Mayor will have litter bins installed nearby.

It has been noted by the photos divulged, that the reserved cubicle doesn’t have a bull’s eye at the correct place to direct the gush as in the Dutch original - in fact, a fly! Maybe Dudu’s team should give it a serious consideration and install it. Another pearl of ingenuity is to be found in this story.

The metallic loo is called UFA!, as in a sigh of relief. It makes people guess what was created first: the acronym or the full name of Unidade Fornecedora de Alívio, that is, Relief Provider Unit. If BRT (Bus Rapid Transit) is how the bus transportation system is called in Rio, we could use RPU instead of UFA!s, since the pronunciation could be heard as “arrepio” (shivers). Nah, never mind, it is a bad joke.

Have you already formed an opinion about the formidable loo? Here comes more information: a three months try-out is in the municipality agenda. If approved, other UFA!s will be installed in strategic points of the city. After that, the ladies will receive the same gift, adapted to their gender, of course. Since there are a few women that have no qualms about peeing on the street without a shield, they will certainly welcome the loo as offered, even without a sink around.

Foto: R7